Sunday, February 17, 2013

Beef StrogaNOT


My first encounter with James Beard was a book - less a cookbook and more a memoir - that my dear friend Lisa bought me one year for my birthday.

In one chapter, Beard describes the proper Beef Stroganoff, a quick sautéed dish with a sauce of creme fraiche and butter and booze. Beard laments the dish's sad modern form: cheap cuts, braised in wine, cooked forever and ever, and finished with sour cream.

My mother made this latter version - which was an edible, filling stew - but it wasn't the transcendent dish that Beard describes:

The James Beard Cookbook (Dell Publishing, 1959)
ill mostly raw beef back in just before serving, rare, creamy, perfect beef Stroganoff.

In making dinner the other night I realized I did a version. Good Italian parsley is key.


Beef Onglet StrogaNOT:
  • A whole onglet (two roughly 1lbs steaks).
  • 2 cups of sliced button or crimini mushrooms.
  • 1/3 cup of drinkable white wine.
  • 2 tablespoons of butter.
  • Handfull of chopped parsley.
  • Salt and pepper.
  • 1tbsp Clarified butter.
Preheat the oven to 400ºF.

Salt meat on all sides and let come to room temperature.

Brown steaks, cut in halve to form 4 pieces, on a large hot cast-iron pan in clarified butter, about a minute per side, and set aside.

Sautée mushrooms, browning first then adding a pinch of salt.

Always cook with a proper cocktail nearby.
Arrange steaks atop mushrooms.

Cover and cook in oven for 7-8 minutes.

Move steaks to a plate to cool and build the sauce:

Return pan to stove. Reduce beef and mushroom "jus" - adding any juice that runs out of the steaks.

Add white wine and half of the parsley. Reduce by half until jus is "napé".

Remove from heat and mount with cold butter.

Slice onglets, against the grain (usually on a rather severe bias) into 1/4 inch slices.

Cover with mushroom sauce.

If you want to go full Stroganoff, add a dollop of creme fraiche.

Top with remaining parsley.